Fónico Mexico City Ultimate Review: Dining Inside Roma Norte’s Most Stunning Architectural Masterpiece

Last Updated on February 12, 2026 by Mauricio Vite

Let’s be honest: first impressions matter. In the world of high-end dining, you usually have to wait until the first appetizer lands on the table to feel that spark of excitement. But at Fónico Mexico City, the seduction begins the moment you step off the street.

Located in the heart of the trendy Roma Norte district, Fónico doesn’t just invite you in; it captivates you immediately. The second you pass the hostess stand, you are greeted by what might be the most photographed architectural feature in the entire city: a spectacular, spiraling wooden staircase. It commands the room, sweeping upward with an elegance that feels both ancient and futuristic. It frames the experience before you’ve even taken a sip of water.

I recently visited this culinary hotspot to see if the food could live up to the breathtaking design. As a tour operator here in CDMX, I’ve seen my fair share of “pretty” restaurants that lack substance. But Fónico? This place is different. Housed in a 19th-century Porfirian mansion (Casona), it promises a journey through contemporary Mexican cuisine that respects tradition while breaking all the rules.

If you are looking for an upscale Mexican food experience that perfectly balances history, design, and flavor, this is the one you need to do at least once. Here is my full review of what it’s like to dine at Fónico CDMX.

The Venue: A Masterclass in Design by FGP Atelier

Before we even talk about the food, we have to talk about where you are sitting. Fónico isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a design statement.

The venue is located at Salamanca 85, inside a gorgeous historic mansion. But this isn’t a dusty, old-fashioned renovation. The project was spearheaded by the renowned architect Francisco González Pulido of FGP Atelier. Pulido is known for his work on massive infrastructure projects (like airports and stadiums), so seeing him tackle an intimate dining space is fascinating.

The “Afótica” Concept

The design philosophy here is often described as “Afótica”—inspired by the lightless depths of the sea. It sounds intense, but in practice, it creates a moody, sophisticated atmosphere that feels incredibly private even when the restaurant is full.

Pulido managed to respect the original facade of the house while completely reimagining the interior. He used a striking combination of raw metals, warm woods, and strategic lighting to create a space that feels “suspended” inside the old walls. The interplay of light and shadow is mesmerizing. The oval windows and the geometry of the ceiling give it a modern edge, while the preserved walls remind you of the building’s history. It is the perfect clash of the 19th and 21st centuries.

When you sit down, take a moment to look up. The attention to detail in the ceiling geometry and the ambient lighting creates a stage for the food. It’s theater, pure and simple.

The Cocktail Experience: A Refreshing Start

In a city known for its mezcal, Fónico’s bar program holds its own with a sophisticated lineup of signature cocktails. The bar itself is a focal point of the energy in the room, often buzzing with bartenders shaking tins with rhythmic precision.

The Aperol & Rum Creation

I started my evening with a cocktail that caught my eye immediately. It was a blend of Aperol and Rhum—a combination I hadn’t tried before.

Usually, we associate Aperol with a Spritz (light, bubbly, low ABV), but pairing the bitter orange notes of the Italian aperitif with the sugarcane sweetness and complexity of a good Rum was a stroke of genius. It was served beautifully—”cute” is the best word for it—with a presentation that felt effortless yet curated.

The flavor profile was the perfect opener for the meal. It wasn’t cloyingly sweet; instead, it had a crisp, refreshing bitterness that woke up the palate. The rum added a backbone to the drink that lingered pleasantly. If you are visiting, I highly recommend asking the mixologist for their current seasonal recommendation, but if this Aperol-Rum hybrid is on the menu, order it. It sets a playful tone for the serious gastronomy that follows.

Contemporary Mexican Cuisine: The Tasting Experience

Now, let’s get to the main event. The kitchen at Fónico is led by Chef Billy Maldonado, a chef with a resume that spans Michelin-starred kitchens around the globe. His approach to contemporary Mexican cuisine is technically precise but deeply rooted in local flavors, specifically drawing inspiration from the Northwest of Mexico (Sonora and Baja).

The menu is a celebration of the land and sea, and on this visit, I decided to dive into a variety of dishes that showcase the kitchen’s range.

Machaca Quesadillas

We started strong with a nod to Northern Mexico: Machaca Quesadillas.

For those unfamiliar, Machaca is dried, spiced beef that is rehydrated and pounded—a staple of Sonoran cuisine. In many places, this is a rustic, heavy breakfast dish. At Fónico, it is refined. The tortillas were handmade, likely from high-quality heirloom corn (nixtamal), possessing that distinct earthy aroma you only get from fresh masa.

The filling was savory and intense. The machaca was tender, not chewy, and the cheese used was high-quality, melting perfectly to bind the meat. It was a comforting bite that grounded us immediately in Mexican tradition before the kitchen started showing off their modern techniques.

Esquites with Black Truffle Foam

If the Quesadillas were the tradition, the Esquites were the innovation.

Esquites are the quintessential Mexico City street food—corn kernels boiled with epazote, served with mayo, lime, and chili. It’s humble food. But Fónico takes this humble cup of corn and sends it to finishing school.

They served the corn with a Black Truffle Foam. The usage of foam can sometimes feel like a dated culinary trend, but here, it served a purpose. It provided the airy creaminess you usually get from mayonnaise but with the luxurious, earthy punch of truffle. The truffle didn’t overpower the sweetness of the corn; it elevated it. It was absolutely delicious—a perfect example of how fine dining can pay homage to street food without losing the soul of the dish.

Velvety Walnut Soup

Next came the soup course, and this was perhaps the most surprising dish of the night. It was a Velvety Walnut Cream Soup.

Visually, it looked incredible—smooth, pale, and garnished elegantly. I took the first spoonful, and the texture was impeccable. “Velvety” is the only accurate adjective; it coated the mouth luxuriously.

Flavor-wise, it was fascinating. To be honest, it tasted a little bit like beans—specifically the creamy interior of a bayo bean. But I mean that in the best way possible. It had that nutty, savory depth that walnuts and beans share. The flavor was actually amazing, rich and comforting, yet light enough not to ruin your appetite for the main courses. It challenged my palate in a way I didn’t expect from a nut-based soup.

The Main Courses: Where the Kitchen Truly Shines

While the appetizers were delightful, what truly blew my mind were the main courses. This is where Chef Maldonado’s expertise in handling proteins really took center stage.

Cochinita with Green Mole

The first main was a twist on a classic: Cochinita with Green Mole.

Usually, Cochinita Pibil (slow-roasted pork from Yucatán) is served with an achiote red sauce. Pairing it with a Green Mole (Mole Verde) was a bold move. Green mole is herbaceous, made with pumpkin seeds, tomatillos, and fresh herbs.

The pork was incredibly tender—”finger-licking good,” quite literally. But the fun part of this dish was the interaction. We were provided with fresh tortillas to make our own tacos. There is something undeniably satisfying about building your own bite at a fine dining table. You take a piece of the succulent pork, drench it in that complex green mole, add a little salsa, and fold it up. The acidity of the green mole cut through the richness of the pork fat perfectly.

The Star of the Show: Braised Short Rib

As good as the Cochinita was, the undisputed king of the evening was the Braised Short Rib.

This dish was a masterpiece. The short rib had been braised for hours, likely at a low temperature, until the collagen had completely broken down. It didn’t require a knife; it yielded instantly to the fork.

It was served in a Three Chiles Sauce. This sauce was deep, dark, and glossy—a sign of a well-executed reduction. It wasn’t just spicy; it was smoky, slightly sweet, and packed with umami. It tasted like it had been simmering since the morning. The beef absorbed all those flavors, resulting in a bite that was intense and memorable. If you only order one main dish at Fónico, let it be this one. It perfectly represents the “Sonora meets Global Technique” philosophy of the chef.

A Sweet Finale: Chocolate & Coffee

No meal in Mexico is complete without dessert, and we opted for a classic: Chocolate Fondant.

Chocolate Fondant with Cafe de Olla Ice Cream

You might think you’ve had chocolate fondant a million times, but the execution here is flawless. When you break into the cake, the center flows out like molten lava—rich, dark, and decadent.

But the real stroke of genius was the pairing. Instead of standard vanilla, they served it with Cafe de Olla Ice Cream.

Cafe de Olla is traditional Mexican coffee brewed in a clay pot with cinnamon and piloncillo (raw cane sugar). Capturing that specific flavor profile in an ice cream is difficult, but they nailed it. The spiced, coffee notes of the cold ice cream against the hot, bitter chocolate of the fondant created a temperature and flavor contrast that was pure magic. It was the perfect ending to the meal.

Pricing, Value, and Logistics

You are probably wondering: how much does a night like this cost?

The Damage

Based on my review of the menu and what we ordered, you should budget approximately $80 USD per person (roughly $1,600 to $1,800 MXN).

• What this includes: Appetizers, a main course, dessert, and a cocktail or two.
• The Verdict on Value: Is it cheap? No. Is it worth it? Absolutely. When you factor in the location (one of the most expensive neighborhoods in CDMX), the architectural pedigree of the venue, the quality of ingredients (truffle, short rib, premium spirits), and the level of service, the price point is fair for the market.

They also offer strictly curated Mexican Tasting Menus (often 7+ courses) if you want to put your fate entirely in the chef’s hands. These are great options for special occasions.

Conclusion: An Upscale Mexican Experience You Must Try

Mexico City is currently one of the greatest food cities in the world. The competition is fierce. Yet, Fónico manages to stand out not just because of its food, but because it offers a complete package.

From the moment you walk past those stunning stairs, you feel transported. The architecture by Francisco González Pulido provides a dramatic backdrop for Chef Billy Maldonado’s cuisine. Whether you are sipping on an Aperol-Rum cocktail, making tacos out of Cochinita and Green Mole, or savoring that incredible Short Rib, every element feels intentional.

It is an upscale Mexican food experience that feels modern, vibrant, and alive. I recommend doing it at least once—whether you are a local looking to impress a date, or a traveler wanting to see the sophisticated side of CDMX.

Ready to experience Fónico? Book your table, order the Short Rib, and don’t forget to take a photo on those stairs.

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